Blocking and finishing smocking
Blocking sets the smocked panel to its final width and lets the stitches settle. It is the last step before the panel becomes part of a garment, and it is worth taking slowly.
Steps
- Check every row on the front; fix loose stitches now.
- Pull out the pleater threads one at a time, leaving the smocking in place.
- Lay the panel flat on a pressing surface, right side down.
- Steam gently without pressing the iron into the pleats.
- Ease the panel to the finished width from the table on the plate page.
- Let it dry completely before moving it.
Target widths
| Chest (in) | Front panel width with 2 in ease (in) |
|---|---|
| 18 | 10.0 |
| 20 | 11.0 |
| 22 | 12.0 |
| 24 | 13.0 |
| 26 | 14.0 |
| 28 | 15.0 |
Measure against your own pattern; the table is only a starting point. Then attach the panel to the yoke lining and sew the garment as your pattern says. If you are still choosing a plate, browse the collections.
Common mistakes
- Pressing hard on the pleats, which flattens the texture.
- Removing the pleater threads before checking every row.
- Stretching the panel wider than the plate width, which loosens the stitches.
After blocking
Leave the panel to rest, then measure its width against your pattern. If it is a little narrow, ease it wider while it is still damp; if it is too wide, pin it to the target width and let it dry. Only then sew it to the neckline or waistband lining.
Before you begin a new project, look at the floss guide to buy the right amount of thread.
Read next
- Holiday Smocking Plates: Holiday Smocking Plates: eight printable smocking plates with sizing tables and floss estimates, $19 once, delivered as PDF and SVG.
- Picture Smocking Basics: Picture Smocking Basics: eight printable smocking plates with sizing tables and floss estimates, $19 once, delivered as PDF and SVG.
- Smocking guides: Seven smocking guides: reading a plate, using a pleater, sizing by chest, floss amounts, backsmocking, blocking and a glossary of stitches.