Sailor Jon-Jon Band
Sailor Jon-Jon Band is a beginner smocking plate charted on 33 pleats and 3 worked rows. Navy and powder blue for the front of a boys' jon-jon or a sailor style romper. It uses cable and outline, stitched in navy, powder blue. Everything below comes from the same engine as the Plate Designer, so you can change the colors, stitches or chest size there and get a new chart.
The plate at a glance
| Level | Beginner |
| Pleats charted | 33 |
| Worked rows | 3 |
| Pleater setup | 5 pleater rows (3 worked plus one holding row above and below) |
| Pleated width | 8.25 in at 0.25 in per pleat |
| Raw fabric width at 3:1 | 24.75 in |
It is a beginner plate: few stitch types, no counting beyond the pleat lines, and every row sits on a single pleater line.
Stitch by stitch
Work the rows from the top of the plate down. Each line gives the row number, the color, the pleats covered and the movement to use.
- Row 1: Cable in Navy, pleats 1 to 33, 33 bites, 3 strands. Pick up each pleat on the row line and let the working thread fall alternately above and below the needle.
- Row 2: Outline in Powder blue, pleats 1 to 33, 33 bites, 3 strands. Pick up each pleat on the row line with the working thread kept above the needle the whole way along.
- Row 3: Cable in Navy, pleats 1 to 33, 33 bites, 3 strands. Pick up each pleat on the row line and let the working thread fall alternately above and below the needle.
Floss for this plate
| Color | Thread (yd) | Skeins needed | Skeins to buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Navy | 1.39 | 0.09 | 1 |
| Powder blue | 0.67 | 0.04 | 1 |
The estimate assumes 3 strands, a quarter inch of thread per bite, four inches of tail at each end and 15 percent waste. The floss guide explains each number and how to scale it for 2, 4 or 6 strands.
Pleats by chest size
The chart above is one width. To smock the same plate on a garment, use the pleat count for the chest size in the table (front panel, 2 in of ease, 3:1 fabric ratio, 45 in fabric).
| Chest (in) | Pleats | Raw fabric width (in) | Widths of 45 in fabric |
|---|---|---|---|
| 18 | 41 | 30.75 | 1 |
| 20 | 45 | 33.75 | 1 |
| 22 | 49 | 36.75 | 1 |
| 24 | 53 | 39.75 | 1 |
| 26 | 57 | 42.75 | 1 |
| 28 | 61 | 45.75 | 2 |
Mirrored plates use an odd pleat count so a single pleat sits on the center line. Plates with honeycomb use an even count because honeycomb works pleats in pairs. Sizing by chest shows the full calculation.
Before you start
- Print the plate at 100 percent and check the one inch square on the printed PDF from any collection.
- Pleat a test strip first and stitch two rows to check your tension.
- Read how to read a plate if the graph notation is new to you.
Read next
- Outline and Stem Ladder: Outline and Stem Ladder, a free beginner smocking plate: 29 pleats, 3 rows, floss estimate and row by row instructions.
- Soft Baby Wave: Soft Baby Wave, a free beginner smocking plate: 29 pleats, 4 rows, floss estimate and row by row instructions.
- Starter Honeycomb: Starter Honeycomb, a free beginner smocking plate: 28 pleats, 3 rows, floss estimate and row by row instructions.